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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.193



  * Confinement:
    (In portable kennel with litterbox, (with appropriate corrections)
    to stop further inappropriate behavior while medical and/or other
    problems are being treated.)
    1.  particularly beneficial for transient stress induced problem
    2.  may allow acclimation to stress situation where source of
        stress cannot be eliminated
    3.  procedure:
        a.  choose an area that can be a permanent location of litterbox
        b.  keep cat confined to this area 4-6 weeks when not under
            your direct visual supervision (if your cat attempts
            elimination outside of kennel when you are watching,
            squirt with water pistol as soon as elimination posture is
            attempted and put cat back in kennel)
        c.  if cat is using box regularly for 4 to 6 weeks when not
            under your gradually give access to larger and larger
            areas of your home, one room or hallway at a time
            (1) allow 1 week of good behavior in the new area before
                adding the new room
            (2) never increase access area until you are 100% certain
                cats use of litterbox is 100%
            (3) if accident occurs, re-evaluate this material to make
                sure litterbox problem or something else didn't
                trigger
        d.  begin confinement over again and double intervals for
            relapses

  * For inappropriate urination problems in which all else fails and
    the alternative is euthanasia, hormone therapy may be attempted.
    1.  only for neutered cats
    2.  only 50% effective
    3.  side effects may include increased appetite (common),
        depression or lethargy (less common).  Long term use might
        have side effects such as: mammary enlargement, adrenocrotical
        suppression, and diabetes mellitus.
    3.  usually requires lifelong maintenance on regular intermittent basis
    4.  very dangerous drug; use borders malpractice -- should be
        reserved for cats who will be put to sleep if problem is not
        solved
        a.  immunosuppressive
        b.  weight gains predisposing to obesity
        c.  mammary gland development
        d.  feminization of males
        e.  may induce latent diabetes
    5.  dosage is initiated daily for 7 day trial; if effective, then
        dosage is tapered to least effective amount given every other
        day every one to two weeks
    6.  relapses may be expected when drug is discontinued


F.  Escaping.

The best way to discourage running to the door is never to let the cat
succeed!  After a history of unsuccessful attempts, the cat will stop
trying.  After even one success, the cat will try hard and for a long
time.

Tip: don't arrive at the door with three bags of groceries in hand and
expect you'll be able to keep the cat in.  Instead, put down all but
one bag and use that bag to block the floor level when you come in.
After you're in, bring in the rest.  In general, spend the time to be
in control whenever the outside door is opened.  Kids will need to
learn how to keep the cat in too.  A waterbottle may help with
persistent cats.  It will pay off later when the cat stops trying to
get out.

To turn a formerly outdoor cat into an indoor one (or to discourage a
persistent one, you might try this, recommended by the San Francisco
SPCA: Enlist the help of a friend to hide outside the door with a
hose and spray attachment and have her or him spray the cat when you
let it out.  This may take several applications, over several days.

Some cats *are* remarkably persistent, and never seem to give up.

G.  Drape/Curtain Climbing.

If possible, use tension rods instead of drill-the-hole-in-the-wall
rods.  The tension rods will simply fall down on top of the cat if
it tries to climb them.

Otherwise, take the drapes off the hooks and thread them back up with
thread just strong enough to hold them up, but barely.  When the cat
climbs up, the drapes will fall down on it (be sure that the hooks
aren't around to potentially injure the cat).  After the drapes have
remained up for some time, re-hook them.  This has the advantage of
working whether you're home or not.

Vertical blinds can work very well; cats cannot climb up them, cannot
shred them, cannot shed on them, cannot be bent the way horizontal
blinds.  It is furthermore easy for cats to push them aside to look
outside.  Vertical blinds are usually vertical strips of plastic, but
they can also come covered with different fabrics to match your decor.
These kinds are still pretty indestructible.

H.  Cord (and Other) Chewing.

Put something distasteful on the cord to discourage chewing.
Substances to try: tabasco sauce, cayenne pepper, Bitter Apple/Orange,
nail-biting nailpolish, orange/lemon peel.  If you cannot find a
substance that will repel your cat, you may wish to use duct tape to
secure exposed cords.  Duct tape comes in a variety of colors and you
will probably be able to find something relatively inconspicuous.

This will work on other chewed items, as well, although you will need
to check the compatibility of the chewed item with the substance you
put on it.

(continued)
----------------
This article is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.  This
article is provided "as is" without express or implied warranty.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------
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From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.cats,news.answers
Subject: rec.pets.cats FAQ (part 3/3)
Supersedes: <cats-faq/[e-mail]>
Followup-To: poster
Date: 11 Dec 1992 06:02:34 GMT
Organization: University of California at Irvine: ICS Dept.
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X-Last-Updated: 1992/09/30

Archive-name: cats-faq/part3
Version: 1.0
Last-modified: 29 September 1992
Periodicity: 20 days

This is the third and last part of the FAQ (Frequently Asked
Questions) List for rec.pets.cats.  It is posted every twenty days:
updates, additions, and corrections (including attributions) are
always welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

Copies of both parts of this FAQ may be obtained by anonymous ftp to
pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) under
/pub/usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/*.  Or send email to
[e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part1
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part2
send usenet/news.answers/cats-faq/part3

in the body of the message to have both parts emailed to you.


I.  Biting.

Give a sharp, plantative yowl, like the sound a hurt cat will make.
Pull your hand back (or if that would score furrows down your hand,
let it go completely limp), turn your back on it, and ignore it for a
few minutes.  People are divided on the issue of whether to allow hand
attacks at all or to allow limited hand attacks.  You can train the
cat to do either with the same method.  For the former, always wail
when attacked and then offer a toy to play with instead; for the
latter, wail whenever the claws come out, but allow attack of the hand
up to that point.  Be aware that a cat trained not to use a person as
a toy at all will be more trustworthy around a new baby (see A New
Baby).  You may try hissing at a cat that persistently attacks you.

J.  Garbage.

The best way to prevent this problem is to get a garbage container
with a firm lid.  Do NOT start with container that's trivial to get
into, then gradually move to harder and harder containers: this just
trains the cat to get into the harder container.  A hospital type of
container that opens the lid with a foot pedal is effective and
convenient.  Another is the kind with metal handles that swing up to
close the lid. The important thing is the lid is tight and secure.

Another way to prevent this is to store the garbage can out of reach,
such as in the cabinet under the sink or in a pantry where the door is
kept closed.  If the cat can open the cabinet door, get a childproof
latch for it.

If the problem is one of tipping the container over, several bricks in
the bottom of the container may help stabilize it.  Once the cat is
convinced it can't be knocked over, you can remove the weight.

K.  Counters.

It's not a good idea to let your cat on your kitchen counters or
tabletops.  There are several ways to prevent this.  Leave a
collection of poorly balanced kitchen utensils or empty (or with a few
pennies inside) aluminum cans on the counter near the edge, so the cat
will knock them off if it jumps up.  Cats hate surprises and loud
noises.  Leave some ordinary dishwashing liquid on the counters, or
some masking tape (or two-sided carpet tape) arranged gummy side up.
Don't leave things on the counter that will attract the cat (like raw
meat).

These same techniques will work for other surfaces like dressers,
TV's, etc.

L.  Early AM Wakeups.

Cats are notorious for waking their owners up at oh-dark-thirty.
If you wish to stop this, there are several steps to take.

The cat may simply be hungry and demanding its food.  By feeding it
when it wakes you up at an ungodly hour, you are simply reinforcing
its behavior.  If this is why it's waking you up, you can handle this
either by filling the bowl just before you go to sleep so it will not
be empty in the morning, or by ignoring the cat's wakeups and feeding
it at the exact same time convenient to you every morning.  The cat
will adjust fairly quickly to the second.

If it is trying to play, there are again several tactics you can try.
If you make a practice of tiring it out with play just before bedtime,
you can reduce its calls for play at dawn.  What works in some cases
is to hiss gently at the cat.  You can also try shutting it out of the
bedroom.  If it pounds on the door, put it in a bathroom until you
wake up.

In persistent cases, try the vacuum cleaner, eater of noisy kitties.
Go to bed, leaving him out in the hall.  Position the vacuum cleaner
next to the door, inside it.  Plug the vacuum in, and arrange things so
you can switch the vacuum on from your bed (eg, wire a switch into an
extension cord).  Wait for the scratching and wailing at the door.
Turn the vacuum cleaner on.  If cat comes back, turn it on again.
The cat will eventually decide to stop bothering you in the morning.

M.  Toilet Paper.

Four ways to prevent cats from playing with toilet paper:

  * Hang the roll so that the paper hangs down between the roll and
    the wall rather than over the top of the roll.
  * If the cat knows how to roll it either way, then you can get a
    cover that rests on top of the toilet paper and this will work.
    You can make your own by taking the cardboard core from an empty
    roll and slitting it lengthwise and fitting it over the roll.
  * You can balance a small paper cup full of water on top of the roll.
  * If you are unwilling or unable to use the cover, then close the
    door to the bathroom.

N.  Splashing Water

Some cats like to tip the water dish and empty it all over the kitchen
floor.  You can try placing it on a small rug.  There are large
"untippable" (pyramid-shaped) dishes available at the pet store.  If
the cat then paddles the water out, you may just want to put the dish
in the bathtub.  Cats should always have a source of fresh water
(except for pre-op surgery or prior to a car ride), so removing it
while you are not at home is an unsatisfactory solution.  If the cat
is indoor/outdoor, you may want to put the water dish outside.

O.  Ripping Carpet.

Some cats may develop the annoying and expensive habit of ripping up
carpet.  There are several possible reasons behind this, listed below.
In all circumstances, be sure that there is plenty of items that the
cat *can* scratch.

  * Other "approved" scratching posts may be made of carpet, confusing
    your cat.  Switch to scratching materials that do NOT use carpet.
    Common alternatives include sisal rope, corrugated cardboard, or
    carpet turned wrong-way out.  Retrain your cat onto these items.

  * Some cats rip at doorways that are closed, trying to get through.
    You can put down plastic carpet covering, securing it with nails
    if necessary, through the doorway so that it sticks out on both
    sides.

  * A particular spot may be favored, for no apparent reason.  There
    may be some odor at that spot.  Try cleaning it thoroughly with an
    enzyme-based cleaner like Nature's Miracle and then spraying a
    touch of Bitter Apple or the equivalent on the spot.


V.  PROBLEM BEHAVIORS (OUTSIDE)

A.  In General.

Outside cats, especially those not your own, can present you with
difficult problems.  Cats are not regarded the way dogs are under law:
there is nothing that says you have the "right" to keep cats out of
your yard, for example (whereas dogs can be required to be kept
confined or on leash, for example).  There are historical and
practical reasons for this -- but there are still practical steps you
can take to resolve several problems.  This section is written
primarily for people who want to stop other cats (i.e., not their own)
from being a nuisance on their property.

B.  Noise.

Mating cats can make an unbelievable amount of noise under your
window.  If these cats are feral, check with your local animal clinic
about trapping and neutering these cats.  Many will do them at little
or no cost, depending on how many cats you're willing to bring in for
the procedure.  Eliminating the breeding stock in feral cats as much
as possible will also help reduce the stray population in your area
over time, and reduce similar problems like cat fights and spraying.

C.  Your Garden.

Between digging and eating in your plants, cats can do considerable
damage to a garden.  There are a number of ways to keep cats from
digging in, chewing on, or eliminating in your garden.

Some people have successfully used the "diversionary" tactic by
planting catnip in another corner of the garden entirely, confining
the destruction to one spot.

If you have not yet started your garden, put chicken wire down and
plant between the wire.  Cats dislike walking on the chicken wire and
most plants (unless they grow too big) do just fine growing between
the wire.

Other people have reported success with different sprays, gels, and
products specifically formulated to keep animals out of your yard.
Check your local pet store.

Lemon peels, soap slivers (use biodegradeable soap) dipped in cayenne
pepper and other organic materials have also been reportedly successful.

Cats hate water: surprising them with a squirt gun (or turning your
sprinklers on) can discourage specific cats from returning.

D.  Local "Attack" Cats.

Sometimes there is a problem with a particular cat that fights with
other cats.  If it is feral, try to make arrangements to neuter it, if
possible.  If it belongs to a neighbor, try to discuss the matter with
your neighbor, and avoid being "threatening."  When approached
reasonably, most people can be reasonable in turn.  Sometimes your
neighbor just doesn't know his cat is bothering you.

If the cat actually follows your cat through the pet door, you might
try an electronic pet door to keep it out (see Pet Doors).

E.  Your Birdfeeder.

Locate your birdfeeder in an area where the ground is clear, affording
cats no cover.  At the same time, try to locate it *under* something,
like a tree, to provide refuge from attack by other birds.

F.  Keeping your cat in your yard.

Cats are very good at scaling fences.  But if you have a yard that is
otherwised fenced in, you can try keeping your cat from going over the
fence by attaching corrougated fiberglass to the top of it.  There is
then no purchase for the cat to pull itself up.  It is even possible
to find different colors of the fiberglass to keep it inconspicuous.
Keep in mind, though, that many cats are clever climbers and high
jumpers and may circumvent anything short of a yard totally enclosed
and roofed over with chicken wire.


VI.  ENTERTAINMENT

A.  Scratching Posts.

You can order a large catnip tree from Felix (1-800-24-Felix),
especially if you cannot make one on your own because of lack of
skill, time, or workspace.  Cats especially enjoy being able to climb
up and down these structures.  Big ones should be bolted to the wall
for stability.  Most pet stores sell these things.  Expect to pay no
more than US$100 for a good sized one.  Look for sturdiness and balance.

Sisal has been recommended over carpet for a scratching post cover.
Cats seem to like the texture better, and it helps avoid confusion
over which carpet is the "right" carpet to scratch.

You can also buy rectangular chunks of catnip-treated corrugated
cardboard scratching 'posts', available at pet supply stores for
about US$8 each.  They can be either hung from a door, tacked to a wall
or just laid flat on the ground.  You might have to "show" them how to
use them.  Most cats love the texture of the cardboard (as well as the
'nip).

You might try used automobile tires placed upright and tied securely.
Cats that like horizontal scratching posts jump up on it and scratch
and cats that like vertical scratching posts stretch up and scratch.
The tires can be bare or themselves covered with scratching material.
In addition, cats have fun going through and around the tire.

Other readers have reported using wooden boards wrapped several times
around with burlap.  The burlap can be replaced as it is shredded.

B.  Catnip.

Catnip is a plant that causes various reactions in cats.  Very young
cats and kittens will not be affected by catnip.  About 20% of cats
are never affected by catnip.  It is not known why or how catnip has
the effect it does on the rest of the cat population.  It is a
non-addictive "recreational drug" for cats with no known harm to the
cat.  There was an article in _Science_ [exact reference?]  on the
neurological effects of catnip on cats.  It seems to stimulate the
same pleasure centers in the feline brain that orgasm does.  Most cats
"mellow out" and become sleepy and happy, others start acting very
kittenish.  A small percentage will become possessive of their catnip
and may snap or hiss at you.

You can find wild catnip plants in most weedy areas, and harvest the
seed.  Or you can buy seed from companies like Burpees or Parks or
Northrup King -- most garden centers have catnip seed this time of
year -- check the "herb" section.  Or even seed racks in the grocery
and discount stores.

Catnip is easy to grow.  You will need to keep the plant itself out of
the reach of the cats as catnip-lovers will quickly destroy it.  The
best strategy is to get some growing, and then pinch and prune it
regularly and give the harvested leaves to your cat.  Keep it in its
own pot, as it will spread rapidly.  Cats will tend to dig up
transplanted catnip and eat it roots and all, but are much gentler on
plants started from seed.  The leaves have to be bruised to release
the odor, and transplanting seems to be enough bruising...

Nepeta cataria is the common catnip; other Nepeta species have varying
amounts of "active ingredient".  A good one is Nepeta mussini, a
miniature-leaved catnip that makes a good rockgarden plant.  Nepeta is
a genus of the Lamiaceae (=Labiatae), the mint family.  There are
about 250 species of catnip, plus a bunch of hybrids between species.
Only about 10 are available in this country, though.

You can order from Burpee (215-674-9633)
 Nepeta cataria  B61424  $1.25
 N. mussinii   B38828  $1.45

Valerian root is an herb with effects very similar to catnip and
generally makes cats a bit nuts.  It is however not as readily
available as catnip and perhaps a bit more potent than catnip.

Catnip and Valerian both act as sedatives on humans.

C.  Other Toys.

In general, cats perversely favor the cheap homemade toy over the
expensive supermarket toy.  Toys commonly mentioned foil or paper
balls, superballs, little plastic rings from milk jugs, ornaments on
christmas trees, pencils, paper bags, cardboard boxes, Q-tips, cat
dancers ... the list is nearly infinite.

A new "cat toy" seems to be the production of videotapes for your
furry feline.  Tapes of birds and mice complete with intriguing noises
have kept several reader's cats entranced.  If your cat seems to like
watching TV (some do), this might be fun for your cat.  Don't give it
access to your remote, though.

Take sensible precautions with toys that can injure the cat: avoid
toys small enough to be swallowed or choked on; avoid toys with loose
or potentially sharp parts; avoid toys that can strangulate the cat or
shred the intestines if swallowed (including string and rubber bands).
Put strings away when you are not at home.

D.  Playing.

Most cats will love playing with you.  There is the usual string or
ball chasing; a few will even retrieve thrown items.  "Hide and seek"
and "Peekaboo" are also popular.  Cats commonly display interest by
dilating their pupils; look for this to see what catches its
attention.

Cats will often display behavior commonly called "elevenses," since it
seems to occur most often around 11PM.  This consists of the cat's
eyes dilating, its tail poofing out, and alternating between hopping
sideways and racing all over the house.  Your cat wants to play.  Take
it up on the challenge.  Chase after it, play hide and seek.  This can
also be useful; playing with a cat just before bedtime reduces the
chances of your cat wanting to play with you at 3AM.


VII.  CHANGING ENVIRONMENTS

A.  A New Baby.

Cats can become jealous upon the arrival of a new baby.  Reassure the
cat that you still love it by paying it plenty of attention.  In the
exhaustion and turmoil of a new baby, the cat is often neglected, and
this will add to its resentment.

There is a myth that cats will kill babies.  The superstition is that
they'll "steal" the baby's breath; the latter day explanation is that
they will lie on babies and suffocate them.  While cats may like the
baby's warmth and may curl up next to it, it will not often lie on the
baby and in any case will move when the baby begins to flail its arms
and legs.

Most cats are trustworthy around babies after getting over any
jealousy, especially if it is trained not to use people as toys;
however babies should *never* be left unsupervised around *any*
animal.

B.  Travel.

1.  Cars

Cats generally don't like travelling in cars.  For short trips, put
them in carriers to prevent accidents such as getting in the driver's
way, or escaping when the door is opened.  For long trips (all day or
more), use cat carriers, minimize food intake beforehand, and give
water every time you stop.  Consider getting harnesses and leashes for
when you stop.  Most motels allow cats.  Sometimes you can use
temporary fencing to block off the back of your car to give them a
roomier "cage"; you can usually then put litterboxes down instead of
keeping them for pit stops.  Tranquilizers can be obtained from the
vet, but not all cats react well to them, and they may make a trip
worse than it would have been otherwise (test the cat's reaction to
them beforehand).  Many cats will sack out after a few hours on the
road.

For long-distance trips, make sure the motels take cats beforehand.
Some do not, and are very nasty about it if you try to beg a room.
AAA lists motels that accept pets.

You might want to carry along water from your home, especially if you
are traveling between states.  Ice cubes in the water dish allow your
cats to have water without it spilling while you're driving (and helps
if its hot, too).

If you're traveling in the summer, make sure the cats get lots of air
or air conditioning in the car. carry an umbrella or other
shade-making device in case you have a breakdown.  Keep alert to where
the sun is shining in your car (i.e., is it beating down on the back
seat where the cats are?)

2.  Trains

Trains vary widely whether or not animals are allowed on passenger
cars.  Amtrack does not.  British Rail permits cats in a basket or
cage placed on the floor, seat or luggage rack.  The Swedish railway
company allows pets in the smoking section of the car, although
pet/non-smoker compartments have been recently introduced.

3.  Planes

All major airlines allow cats that fit with carrier underseat
according to the same dimension limits as for underseat baggage.  Most
airlines will tell you the cat has to be able to stand up in that
carrier but won't enforce this.  The pet area is not cargo, it's
pressurized but possibly not heated or cooled.  Get nonstop flights
since the airplane has little climate control for pets or passengers
while on the ground.  Airlines aren't permitted to take more than one
cat per carrier except for kittens.  You must call ahead, usually only
one carrier is allowed in the cabin, the rest must go into the pet
area.

Tips:

  * Try not to travel when temperatures are outside the 40-80 degrees
    F range at either end of the flight or at any stops in between.
  * Try to travel at off-peak times to minimize delays.
  * Use a sturdy kennel with proper ventilation and room for your
    cat to stand, turn around, and lie down.
  * Try not to tranquilize your cat unless absolutely necessary.

Some airlines are better than others.  Delta and United have failed to
follow standard procedures to protect animals in inclement weather and
as a result many animals have died on their flights.  They are being
fined $300,000 for this negligence by the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture.
American, Continental, Pan Am, and TWA have also been fined.  The
ASPCA has brought charges in about 50 cases in the past five years.
Much of this information can be found in "Pets on Planes: Too Often
it's a Rough Ride," _Conde Nast Traveler_ magazine, June 1992.

C.  International Travel.

A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of
rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines.  Most airlines will
require this regardless.  Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine
for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's
policy in a few years).  Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?],
except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is
sufficient.  Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine,
with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain
and Australia.

Australia accepts animals only from rabies-free places and even these
animals have a four month quarantine.  Some sources have cited
different lengths of time from different acceptable countries, eg, six
months if from Britain, but this is unverified.  There is unrestricted
travel between Australia and New Zealand if the animals have been in
New Zealand for at least six months.  It is unclear what New Zealand's
policy is.

US to Australia: The key to bringing cats into Australia is that you
cannot bring cats from mainland US *directly*. You must go through an
intermediate stop, London or Hawaii.  Hawaii is more popular, it has a
shorter quarantine and makes a warm vacation spot.  In Hawaii, the cat
must be in official quarantine for 4 months, followed by another 30
days in a commercial kennel/cattery. The cat can then be brought into
Australia, but faces another 4 months of quarantine here. So the total
takes 9 months (and a fair investment).

D.  Moving.

Again, there are a variety of responses to a change in home location.
Some cats do well, others are a nervous wreck for several weeks.

By keeping your cat at someone else's home during the actual move-out,
you will keep it out of the way, prevent accidental escape or injury,
and spare the cat the trauma of seeing its world picked up and carried
out.  Once at the new place, keeping it for a day or so in one room of
the new place before allowing it out to explore will alleviate its
anxiety.  In any case, be prepared for up to several weeks of
"slinking" and hiding until becoming accustomed to the new place.